Tracklaying
I am not very good at following a plan. I had a rough idea of what I wanted the plan to look like, and I have eventually got there.
The track is code 75 finescale. It comes in about 1 meter (3' old money) lengths.
I start by laying these roughly where I think that theyshould go. I normally remove a sleeper at each end of the rail with a sharp blade (keeping these sleepers: they need to be trimmed and glued into the gap at a later date). Then pick a starting point and lay the first track. I use small screws with washers to hold them in place. This enables small amounts of tinkering and avoids drilling and nailing the sleepers.
The track is code 75 finescale. It comes in about 1 meter (3' old money) lengths.
I start by laying these roughly where I think that theyshould go. I normally remove a sleeper at each end of the rail with a sharp blade (keeping these sleepers: they need to be trimmed and glued into the gap at a later date). Then pick a starting point and lay the first track. I use small screws with washers to hold them in place. This enables small amounts of tinkering and avoids drilling and nailing the sleepers.
Do not screw too tightly or the rail rip from the chairs. Also, sometimes the track will bend a little out of shape if you are too enthusiastic!
Next, ease a joiner / fishplate onto the ends. Start on a straight piece of track, so you get the hang of the process. It gets slightly more complicated going round bends!
Next, ease a joiner / fishplate onto the ends. Start on a straight piece of track, so you get the hang of the process. It gets slightly more complicated going round bends!
Getting the right shape
I lay the corners with the aid of a set of Tracksettas. They sit between the rails an ensure a smooth curve. For curves that do not conform to the set sizes, then it is just a matter of ensuring a consistent bend.
Once bent, the outside rail will be longer than the inside. There are two ways of dealing with this. The first is to stagger the rail joiners. This puts less strain on the joiners themselves and is probably the best way to go. The other way is to cut the longer rail to the same length as the other. The use of a Dremmel type device is a good choice, but you can buy Xuron cutters specifically for the job, or cut the rail slightly long with a set of pliers and use a small grinder to bring the rail to size and remove the burrs is an option (though not a great one in my eyes). Slide your joiners on and start another rail.
Always remember to check back a couple of rails as sometimes previous joins seem to loosen. Some people advise leaving a small gap between the rails to allow for expansion in hotter weather, but I have never had a problem.
Transition Curves: I also like a gradual transition into the curve: start the curve gradually. The overall look will be much better, and removes the "slot car" look as the trains start the bend. I also like to plan, so that the more severe curves are slightly hidden behind scenery, or in tunnels.
Once bent, the outside rail will be longer than the inside. There are two ways of dealing with this. The first is to stagger the rail joiners. This puts less strain on the joiners themselves and is probably the best way to go. The other way is to cut the longer rail to the same length as the other. The use of a Dremmel type device is a good choice, but you can buy Xuron cutters specifically for the job, or cut the rail slightly long with a set of pliers and use a small grinder to bring the rail to size and remove the burrs is an option (though not a great one in my eyes). Slide your joiners on and start another rail.
Always remember to check back a couple of rails as sometimes previous joins seem to loosen. Some people advise leaving a small gap between the rails to allow for expansion in hotter weather, but I have never had a problem.
Transition Curves: I also like a gradual transition into the curve: start the curve gradually. The overall look will be much better, and removes the "slot car" look as the trains start the bend. I also like to plan, so that the more severe curves are slightly hidden behind scenery, or in tunnels.
Spacing
The distance between tracks will vary according to the points you are using, either Streamline or Settrack. You can buy 6' way gauges for a few pence from any good railway shop. I prefer to make my own, as I like the gap between the tracks to widen a little around the curves (if done subtly, the increase will not be noticeable)
